Delhi: Living Like A Raj
May 26-27 Mumbai/Delhi
Why am I in India?
Several months ago, back in the fall, I was talking to my friend Neehar, then a senior (sorry buddy), and he was talking about his plans for a trip through India with his hometown friend after graduation in May. “You should meet up with me there, it’ll be great” he said. Jokingly, though with some glimmer of hope, I said I’d think about it - I’d be on that side of the world anyway, so why not right?
As March and April came along, the stars aligned, and I ended up with an extra week to play around with after my finals ended, as I would be able to fit in a few days of travel before my last final (we know how that ended up). With a little bit of luck, I was able to secure relatively cheap flights from Shanghai to Mumbai, to Delhi and then back to HK, all within a weeks time. The plan would be to meet Neehar in Mumbai, then go for a few days with him up to Delhi, do the Taj, and then head back to HK as he continued on. As you’ve read, this is not how it ended up.
Some miscommunication led be to be traveling around Mumbai on my own (no regrets there at all) and then meeting up with Neehar for one day, my last day, in Dehli. He said that I’d be able to meet up with his family friends (the daughter and son-in-law of his father’s best friend), a late-20’s couple, while I was there. At the time, I had no idea what this meant really.
Sometime while I was traveling, I had emailed my new friend, Achen, asking for recommendations on where to stay in Dehli, giving him some ideas I had. To my surprise, he insisted, without questions, that I stay with him at his house. While I fussed at first, Neehar told me to stop - this was what Indian hospitality was like.
After the long path to the Taj, which makes the building so much more majestic and towering as you approach it, we shelved our sandals in cubbies (staffed by a couple guys of course), and headed up to the platform for further inspection.
The words to describe it don’t come easily, even to one, who you know at this point, to be very wordy. All I can say is that I stand in awe of human creation. Put this in context - it was built in the 1600’s, with only people, and no less, in just 23 years. The geometric mastery, craftsmanship and just sheer science behind such a magnificent structure are mind-boggling. For instance, the four pillars on the corners of the platform are all just slight tilting outwards, so that if in any case they fell, they would fall out onto the ground and not the Taj. Genius.
To either side of the Taj, again the symmetry, are mosques for the people to pray. However, only one is in use, as it must face Mecca, and both cannot do that. These buildings are also magnificent, but we didn’t go inside.
Right behind the Taj, is the ruins of what was to be the “second Taj” built for the king. It was to be an exact duplicate of the burial site for his wife, for himself, except all in black. However, it was never finished due to funding constraints, and the king was buried next to, but off center from, his wife inside the Taj.
After getting back in the car, just barely avoiding some of the most scorching heat of the day, starting around 9 of course, we headed back to their house, stopping to pick up some quick breakfast on the way. Kaamna was impressed by my ability to withstand spicy food, and I was proud of course. I had been doing well with the effects of the food so far, and figured I was superhuman, so continued.
Mumbai
After getting to the airport in a rush from Anjali Inn, I breezed through security right in time for my “commuter” flight to Dehli. I picked up a book in the airport bookstore (one of my favorite places), that I had been wanting to read for a while - a mammoth - Barbarians at the Gate - the story of the RJR Nabisco takeover drama in the 80’s, recommended by my Management professor long ago in Freshman year.
Ultimately, the flight was delayed two hours, so instead of getting in around 11:30, I was going to be pushing 2am. I was able to borrow a phone from a friendly person behind me and call my host, Achen. Now might be a good time to explain this situation more clearly...
Ultimately, the flight was delayed two hours, so instead of getting in around 11:30, I was going to be pushing 2am. I was able to borrow a phone from a friendly person behind me and call my host, Achen. Now might be a good time to explain this situation more clearly...
__________________________________________
Why am I in India?
Several months ago, back in the fall, I was talking to my friend Neehar, then a senior (sorry buddy), and he was talking about his plans for a trip through India with his hometown friend after graduation in May. “You should meet up with me there, it’ll be great” he said. Jokingly, though with some glimmer of hope, I said I’d think about it - I’d be on that side of the world anyway, so why not right?
As March and April came along, the stars aligned, and I ended up with an extra week to play around with after my finals ended, as I would be able to fit in a few days of travel before my last final (we know how that ended up). With a little bit of luck, I was able to secure relatively cheap flights from Shanghai to Mumbai, to Delhi and then back to HK, all within a weeks time. The plan would be to meet Neehar in Mumbai, then go for a few days with him up to Delhi, do the Taj, and then head back to HK as he continued on. As you’ve read, this is not how it ended up.
Some miscommunication led be to be traveling around Mumbai on my own (no regrets there at all) and then meeting up with Neehar for one day, my last day, in Dehli. He said that I’d be able to meet up with his family friends (the daughter and son-in-law of his father’s best friend), a late-20’s couple, while I was there. At the time, I had no idea what this meant really.
Sometime while I was traveling, I had emailed my new friend, Achen, asking for recommendations on where to stay in Dehli, giving him some ideas I had. To my surprise, he insisted, without questions, that I stay with him at his house. While I fussed at first, Neehar told me to stop - this was what Indian hospitality was like.
__________________________________________
Back to the present......
Achen assured me that it would be okay, the delay was no problem, just call him from the plane again when they actually start moving (apparently this flight is endemically delayed). A weird instance then happened on the plane, when we started rolling. I turned to an elderly, stout gentleman to my right and asked to borrow his phone to call the person that was picking me up at the airport, explaining away my whiteness and general conspicuousness. He seemed suspicious. Who was this person? A friend of mine? Won’t you be able to pick him out from the crowd in the airport? No, I’ve never actually met him? Eyes glaring, he asked me to dial the number (not long distance of course) and then he would talk. Man, what a stiff!
He told me that there would be a driver waiting for me. Now, I had heard that they were pretty well-off, but a driver? At 2 am? I had the feeling I would be in for more than one surprise that night, and I would not be disappointed.
Back to the present......
Achen assured me that it would be okay, the delay was no problem, just call him from the plane again when they actually start moving (apparently this flight is endemically delayed). A weird instance then happened on the plane, when we started rolling. I turned to an elderly, stout gentleman to my right and asked to borrow his phone to call the person that was picking me up at the airport, explaining away my whiteness and general conspicuousness. He seemed suspicious. Who was this person? A friend of mine? Won’t you be able to pick him out from the crowd in the airport? No, I’ve never actually met him? Eyes glaring, he asked me to dial the number (not long distance of course) and then he would talk. Man, what a stiff!
He told me that there would be a driver waiting for me. Now, I had heard that they were pretty well-off, but a driver? At 2 am? I had the feeling I would be in for more than one surprise that night, and I would not be disappointed.
Delhi
An uneventful and comfortable 2-hour flight landed me in Delhi approaching the 2am mark. I walked outside, backpacks on front and back, and looked aimlessly, trying to stand out more than usual so attract my greeters.
Within a minute, a young guy came over, partially chewing on some street food, and asked if I was Jake. I resopnded yes and followed, only to be surprised to be met by Achen’s wife, Kamna, ~25, and find out that the guy was her cousin, Raj, 19. I was escorted, still a bit stunned, to the car, with driver waiting with the A/C on full blast. Note: at 2am, without question, it was above 90 degrees. No big deal, it’s a dry heat.
Within 15 minutes, flying, I do mean that in the almost-literal sense, on the highway, we arrived at their year-old McMansion (in my opinion at least).
After traveling on my own for a month, and not being in a real house for five months, this was truly a sight for sore eyes. After showing me to my ROOM, yes, my own room, complete with queen-sized bed, full bathroom, fresh towels, A/C, and more, I was told to shower up, and get ready. At around 4am, Kamna would be joining me, as the driver took us out for the 3-hour trek to Agra, to see the Taj Mahal.
Now, to be honest, I knew that they were going to take me to Agra, but I didn’t expect it at 4 in the morning, nor did I expect Kamna to join me. As she puts it, she’s a housewife, and would rather see the Taj again than deal with the household stuff - lots of things, the AC included, are still being fixed.
So, after a bowl of Honey Bunches of Oats, which I will not soon forget, we hopped back in the car with tons of snacks and water, and headed off into the sunrise to Agra. The point of going so early is the arrive when it opens, skipping both the crowds and the truly unbearable heat.
The Taj Mahal
We arrived in Agra around 7:30, and after nodding off for a little bit in the car on the very bumpy ride in, I was energetic and excited to see this magnificent wonder. The first interesting part was when the guide offered us a tour of the Taj. Having seen this already a few times, Kamna left it up to me, and figuring that I might not be back for a while, I took up the offer. Of course, because we were one foreigner, one Indian, we got a better price - 250 rupees for the both of us, about 5 dollars.
Next to the ticket office, where us whiteys pay an extraoridanry 750 rupees, and the local price was 10. Amazing discrepancy, but as I’ve said before, I think this is the right thing to do, I certainly wasn’t spending a month’s salary on it like they would be, so we’ll let it slide.
As you enter through the ticket area, you go into a courtyard, surrounded on all sides (symmetircally, as would become the theme) by buildings where they do the stone inalys, and where the workers live (I believe).
An uneventful and comfortable 2-hour flight landed me in Delhi approaching the 2am mark. I walked outside, backpacks on front and back, and looked aimlessly, trying to stand out more than usual so attract my greeters.
Within a minute, a young guy came over, partially chewing on some street food, and asked if I was Jake. I resopnded yes and followed, only to be surprised to be met by Achen’s wife, Kamna, ~25, and find out that the guy was her cousin, Raj, 19. I was escorted, still a bit stunned, to the car, with driver waiting with the A/C on full blast. Note: at 2am, without question, it was above 90 degrees. No big deal, it’s a dry heat.
Within 15 minutes, flying, I do mean that in the almost-literal sense, on the highway, we arrived at their year-old McMansion (in my opinion at least).
After traveling on my own for a month, and not being in a real house for five months, this was truly a sight for sore eyes. After showing me to my ROOM, yes, my own room, complete with queen-sized bed, full bathroom, fresh towels, A/C, and more, I was told to shower up, and get ready. At around 4am, Kamna would be joining me, as the driver took us out for the 3-hour trek to Agra, to see the Taj Mahal.
Now, to be honest, I knew that they were going to take me to Agra, but I didn’t expect it at 4 in the morning, nor did I expect Kamna to join me. As she puts it, she’s a housewife, and would rather see the Taj again than deal with the household stuff - lots of things, the AC included, are still being fixed.
So, after a bowl of Honey Bunches of Oats, which I will not soon forget, we hopped back in the car with tons of snacks and water, and headed off into the sunrise to Agra. The point of going so early is the arrive when it opens, skipping both the crowds and the truly unbearable heat.
The Taj Mahal
We arrived in Agra around 7:30, and after nodding off for a little bit in the car on the very bumpy ride in, I was energetic and excited to see this magnificent wonder. The first interesting part was when the guide offered us a tour of the Taj. Having seen this already a few times, Kamna left it up to me, and figuring that I might not be back for a while, I took up the offer. Of course, because we were one foreigner, one Indian, we got a better price - 250 rupees for the both of us, about 5 dollars.
Next to the ticket office, where us whiteys pay an extraoridanry 750 rupees, and the local price was 10. Amazing discrepancy, but as I’ve said before, I think this is the right thing to do, I certainly wasn’t spending a month’s salary on it like they would be, so we’ll let it slide.
As you enter through the ticket area, you go into a courtyard, surrounded on all sides (symmetircally, as would become the theme) by buildings where they do the stone inalys, and where the workers live (I believe).
(The entrance area)
Then, you come upon this massive, red stone structure, the entrance to The Show. Of note, there are 23 domes on top, symbolizing the 23 years it took for the king to complete this homage to his wife upon her death. Also, I started realizing the distinct Islamic art and architecture - only geometric figures, no people etc - that were characteristic of the Muslim ruler at the time. Additionally, you can see inscriptions running up the lengths of the entrance from the Q’ran, supposedly an illusion, because the verses look identical in size, but to maintain this, as you go up, the figures actually get larger. Either way, they are HUGE. Everything about this is just miraculous.
(The "Grand Entrance")
(Just the beginning...everything here was precious stone and marble)
(Half of the 23 "bulbs")
(This one helps you feel the correct amount of smallness)
(Most of those letters and characters are made from single pieces of inlay)
As we moved through the entrance, the guide stopped me as I stood on one tile. He told me to take one step back and look out at the Taj. It was uneven - you couldn’t see everything through the entrance. One step forward, onto a tile exactly in the center, under the top of the dome inside, and you get a view that can only be described as magical. There it was. A great Wonder of the World. Just laying eyes on it, I felt chills, I felt lucky, I felt disbelief. Only stories and postcards had illuminated this building to me in the past, but now, I am among only a relative few who has seen it in person. I could only stop, stare, and say nothing.
(Perfection)
(Amazing. I truly don't believe I was here)
We moved on out into the main area, with the reflecting pool lined with trees, and gardens on both sides, leading up to the Taj. Many pictures were taken - I must say, Indians are not nearly as proficient as the Chinese, they shake a lot and don’t focus - and then we continued, my jaw, dropped.
When I looked into the reflecting pool, I noticed something strange. It had been really bright out, now that it was no longer officially night, but it was a white sky, and I didn’t notice the sun. Then, as I looked down, then up, I noticed that the sun was indeed there, but it was this bizarre silver color. You could look right at it, and it almost glimmered with sheen. Now, I realized one of the many costs of such insanely fast-paced development and pollution. The entire sky was white with haze, and it wasn’t yet even 9am. Yet of course, even without the direct sun, temperatures had already broken 100. It felt like walking on a treadmill with an oven blowing it your face - the breeze was there, but it was merciless.
(Yup, I was there)
(Kamna and me)
(It felt like it was something actually not from our world)
After the long path to the Taj, which makes the building so much more majestic and towering as you approach it, we shelved our sandals in cubbies (staffed by a couple guys of course), and headed up to the platform for further inspection.
The words to describe it don’t come easily, even to one, who you know at this point, to be very wordy. All I can say is that I stand in awe of human creation. Put this in context - it was built in the 1600’s, with only people, and no less, in just 23 years. The geometric mastery, craftsmanship and just sheer science behind such a magnificent structure are mind-boggling. For instance, the four pillars on the corners of the platform are all just slight tilting outwards, so that if in any case they fell, they would fall out onto the ground and not the Taj. Genius.
(Looking back from the Taj at the entrance)
(The Islamic influence on the top of the dome)
(You can see the slight lean outwards)
(Unfathomable detail)
To either side of the Taj, again the symmetry, are mosques for the people to pray. However, only one is in use, as it must face Mecca, and both cannot do that. These buildings are also magnificent, but we didn’t go inside.
Right behind the Taj, is the ruins of what was to be the “second Taj” built for the king. It was to be an exact duplicate of the burial site for his wife, for himself, except all in black. However, it was never finished due to funding constraints, and the king was buried next to, but off center from, his wife inside the Taj.
(One of the mosques)
(The haze was pretty bad, as you can tell from the white sky)
(Shows the thickness of the inlay, about the size of a pinky nail)
(The site of the "black Taj")
After getting back in the car, just barely avoiding some of the most scorching heat of the day, starting around 9 of course, we headed back to their house, stopping to pick up some quick breakfast on the way. Kaamna was impressed by my ability to withstand spicy food, and I was proud of course. I had been doing well with the effects of the food so far, and figured I was superhuman, so continued.
Sight-Seeing....Like a Boss
Arriving home after a severely bumpy ride, the chefs prepared us a lovely lunch, after which, Raj, Kaamna’s cousin, took me around the city of Delhi. Now, of course, it was too hot to walk, so we were chauffeured around in a massive and new Benz all afternoon, stopping here, getting out there etc.
I got to see the Gate of India, the Parliament and President’s Palace, a commemorative statue to Gandhi and then a few markets with some delicious snacks. At last, we ended up on the top of a small building at a hookah bar/cafre enjoying a fruit shake and the slowdown of the afternoon.
For dinner, Achen and Kamna joined us, and we went to a nearby mega-mall - no longer am I impressed by malls after HK, but this was a nice one - and ate at a really good family-style North Indian restaurant fashioned into an old-style royal train car. Bottom line, I’m obsessed with butter chicken.
Completely full, Raj and I were dropped off at a rugby bar, famous for its homebrews, which were quite tasty. We hung with one of his family friends for a while, and then, turning down an offer to go otu clubbing (I had not slept in a full two days now), we ran down to catch our driver and head off to the airport to pick up Neehar and his friend Eric.
It was so strange seeing Neehar. Not only had it been 6 months since I’d seen him, or other WashU people (aside from Kathryn), but I was picking him up from the airport, and I was in India. Bizzarro world to the max. We went back to the house and enjoyed a good night’s sleep before starting a (final) day of touring Benz-style in Dehli.
I got to see the Gate of India, the Parliament and President’s Palace, a commemorative statue to Gandhi and then a few markets with some delicious snacks. At last, we ended up on the top of a small building at a hookah bar/cafre enjoying a fruit shake and the slowdown of the afternoon.
(I think a memorial to the Prince of Wales)
(Gate of India)
(President's palace)
(Funny sign)
(Could do this alllll day)
(Memorial to Gandhi and supporters)
(Biggest samosa ever, bigger than my palm)
(Underground market)
(Delhi traffic)
(Amazing cheesy croissant thing)
For dinner, Achen and Kamna joined us, and we went to a nearby mega-mall - no longer am I impressed by malls after HK, but this was a nice one - and ate at a really good family-style North Indian restaurant fashioned into an old-style royal train car. Bottom line, I’m obsessed with butter chicken.
Completely full, Raj and I were dropped off at a rugby bar, famous for its homebrews, which were quite tasty. We hung with one of his family friends for a while, and then, turning down an offer to go otu clubbing (I had not slept in a full two days now), we ran down to catch our driver and head off to the airport to pick up Neehar and his friend Eric.
It was so strange seeing Neehar. Not only had it been 6 months since I’d seen him, or other WashU people (aside from Kathryn), but I was picking him up from the airport, and I was in India. Bizzarro world to the max. We went back to the house and enjoyed a good night’s sleep before starting a (final) day of touring Benz-style in Dehli.
Friday May 28
Q'tab Minar, Lotus Temple and Ghandi Smiriti
Friday morning, after a late start with breakfast, we got taken to the Q'tab Minar, in Delhi, an extremely old minaret along with burial grounds for some important people. I’ll be honest, a lot of the facts that Neehar was sprouting got lost in the heat.
Basically though, this is a massive, huge, enormous minaret made with beautiful red brick designs. Additionally, in the same area, is this amazing iron pillar with Sanskrit inscriptions. It is a metallurgic feat that has never been replicated because it is like 600 years old, and has not rusted. Truly astounding!
After the Qtob, we ventured via BMW to the Bahai temple, nicknamed the Lotus Temple, for obvious reasons. It was really quite amazing - huge of course - but with lots of tourists lining up to see it. They mandated shoes off, and complete silence while inside, which to be honest, was quite a relief to sit in the cooler area.
Next, we went to the New Town Colony area to get some lunch. A delicious restaurant, that, by the time we rolled in at 3, was empty, and allowed us some great service. The last stop for our day was to the Gandhi Smiriti, the site of his assasination.
We were confused to arrive at a University, after getting lost for a bit, but then later found the sight, which is located in a nice park, secluded and very solemn. It still amazes me that many of the assasinations you hear about happen by their own people - Lincoln, Kennedy, MLK, Malcolm X, Gandhi - very strange. But, as Gandhi once said, if he were to be shot and killed, he would die with a smile on his face, so as to beat the assassin.
Around 6, we arrived back at the house, with enough time to relax for a bit, allow me to pack, and then head out for a bite to eat before my flight. We decided to all (sans Achen) go to a hookoah cafe for some quick eats and some last time to relax and chat before I had to be hustled to the airport.
It happened so fast.... I couldn’t beleive it, but it was already May 28, and I was heading “home” to HK, to further head HOME to the US. As I was checking into my flight, getting to the gate and sitting down on my plane next so an excitable HK local, I realized what has happened over the last 5 months - adaptation. Adaptation at its finest. I couldn’t help but enjoy the free Johnny Walker and helping my Chinese friend decide on which dish he really wanted (the Indian English combined with Chinese English comprehension proved difficult, and I think I’ve discovered an innate skill of translating bad English).
Somehow, the 6-hour flight barely fazed me, and before I knew it, I was hovering over the beautiful islands of Hong Kong for the last time. Getting off the plane, putting in a HK sim card and making some calls - I felt home, after a month on the road.
Friday morning, after a late start with breakfast, we got taken to the Q'tab Minar, in Delhi, an extremely old minaret along with burial grounds for some important people. I’ll be honest, a lot of the facts that Neehar was sprouting got lost in the heat.
Basically though, this is a massive, huge, enormous minaret made with beautiful red brick designs. Additionally, in the same area, is this amazing iron pillar with Sanskrit inscriptions. It is a metallurgic feat that has never been replicated because it is like 600 years old, and has not rusted. Truly astounding!
(Q'tab Minar)
(Oh hey Neehar)
(I think the heat was getting to me)
(Burial area)
(Tomb)
(Incredibly intricate)
(Nice to see this so far from home...)
(Only one guy goes up there for the 5-daily calls to prayer)
(500 years and NO RUST... astounding)
(Sanskrit inscription)
(English translation)
(The son tried to build one twice as big... but he couldn't handle it)
(Neehar thinking: Yeah, I guess this would be okay to die in)
After the Qtob, we ventured via BMW to the Bahai temple, nicknamed the Lotus Temple, for obvious reasons. It was really quite amazing - huge of course - but with lots of tourists lining up to see it. They mandated shoes off, and complete silence while inside, which to be honest, was quite a relief to sit in the cooler area.
(Lotus Temple)
Next, we went to the New Town Colony area to get some lunch. A delicious restaurant, that, by the time we rolled in at 3, was empty, and allowed us some great service. The last stop for our day was to the Gandhi Smiriti, the site of his assasination.
We were confused to arrive at a University, after getting lost for a bit, but then later found the sight, which is located in a nice park, secluded and very solemn. It still amazes me that many of the assasinations you hear about happen by their own people - Lincoln, Kennedy, MLK, Malcolm X, Gandhi - very strange. But, as Gandhi once said, if he were to be shot and killed, he would die with a smile on his face, so as to beat the assassin.
(Gandhi Smiriti)
(We had to switch cars today, what a shame)
Around 6, we arrived back at the house, with enough time to relax for a bit, allow me to pack, and then head out for a bite to eat before my flight. We decided to all (sans Achen) go to a hookoah cafe for some quick eats and some last time to relax and chat before I had to be hustled to the airport.
(Many great thanks for such an awesome time to Achen and Kamna!)
It happened so fast.... I couldn’t beleive it, but it was already May 28, and I was heading “home” to HK, to further head HOME to the US. As I was checking into my flight, getting to the gate and sitting down on my plane next so an excitable HK local, I realized what has happened over the last 5 months - adaptation. Adaptation at its finest. I couldn’t help but enjoy the free Johnny Walker and helping my Chinese friend decide on which dish he really wanted (the Indian English combined with Chinese English comprehension proved difficult, and I think I’ve discovered an innate skill of translating bad English).
Somehow, the 6-hour flight barely fazed me, and before I knew it, I was hovering over the beautiful islands of Hong Kong for the last time. Getting off the plane, putting in a HK sim card and making some calls - I felt home, after a month on the road.
Hey Jake, I think I've been to all the places you visited in Agra and Delhi within the past 10 years or so, and I have to say, your detailed descriptions are just as good as being there all over again! Thanks for letting us join in on your trip!
ReplyDeleteWOW! You look like you photoshopped yourself into the Taj Mahal picture! Surreal!
ReplyDelete